Out.
Hit the screw and nut with a hammer and shake off the rust layer.
Wet the screws with kerosene for 30 minutes and then screw them out.
Heat the nut with a blowtorch so that the nut is quickly expanded after being thermally expanded.
Disassembly method of the broken head screw When the screw section is higher than the plane of the machine body, the hacksaw slot can be used, and then the screwdriver can be used to unscrew it; or a scrap nut with a diameter similar to that of the broken head screw can be found, which is placed at the broken head and welded by electric welding. Solder the nut and the screw from the hole and screw it out with a wrench.
If the screw section is flush or concave with the plane of the machine, an electric drill can be used to drill a hole in the broken head screw, and a quenched steel with a square section is used to hit the person, and then the wrench is used to rotate and screw out; or the end of the broken head can be welded by electric welding. The head is gradually piled up, and then a scrap nut is welded, and the wrench can be screwed out; if there is a place in the body where the screw hole is allowed to be enlarged, the entire screw can be drilled and re-tapping.
Han Zhenjin Diesel hunger and abdomen 3 and 1, the difficulty of starting the diesel engine, the crankshaft can not move the movement parts improperly assembled, so that the parts are stuck.
The valve is against the piston, which is mainly caused by the wrong timing gear or the excessive decompression stroke.
Individual parts are loose and subject to card.
The piston sticks to the cylinder and the axle holds the shaft.
It is difficult to rotate the crankshaft, the temperature is too low, and the viscosity of the oil is large. This situation only occurs in the winter and can be ruled out by heating the oil.
The decompression mechanism is improperly adjusted, the decompression stroke is too small, and the decompression effect is not significant.
Some fittings are stuck.
The cylinder compression pressure is insufficient, and the valve leakage and pressure reduction mechanism is improperly adjusted, so that the valve closing is not strict.
The valve clearance is too small or the valve is not closed.
The valve stem is bent or the gap between the valve and the conduit is too large, causing the valve to be skewed and not tightly closed.
There is carbon deposit on the valve stem, and the movement in the conduit is blocked and the valve closing is not strict.
The leaking cylinder head nut in the cylinder is not tightened or loose, and the order and method of tightening are not in compliance.
The cylinder head gasket is uneven in thickness or there is dirt on the installation.
The cylinder block and the cylinder head are in joint deformation.
The end face of the cylinder liner protrudes from the top of the body.
After the cylinder liner and the piston leaking machine are parked for a long time, the piston ring and the cylinder liner wall have no oil film and lose the sealing effect.
The piston ring, the piston and the cylinder liner are not well fitted, and the sealing effect is reduced.
Gate Valves are called "full-flow" valves; there's a direct unobstructed path for flow right through the middle of the valve. A wedge-shaped brass gate is lowered into a machined slot to close the valve. They should either be completely open or completely closed. Water flowing through a partially open gate valve wears away the metal and causes the valve to fail over time.
Brass Gate Valve, Flanged Gate Valve, High Pressure Gate Valves, Water Gate Valves
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