In order to realize the early fruit, high yield and high quality of the fine apples such as Red Fuji, in addition to strengthening the comprehensive management measures such as soil, fertilizer and water, it is necessary to carry out winter and summer combination and trimming in the four seasons. Spring pruning is especially important. The specific approach is:
Spring re-cut
Spring re-cutting is also called pre-flowering re-cutting, which is a supplementary pruning. The main reason is to adjust the amount of flowers. It is best to use the flower bud period as the best after flower bud germination. The order of re-cutting is to cut the mature tree first, then cut the young tree, cut the weak tree first, then cut the tree, cut the early flowering varieties, and cut the late flowering varieties. For the re-cutting of large trees during the fruiting period, the focus is on the branching treatment, and the ratio of the growing branches to the resulting branches is adjusted to 2 to 3:1. The re-cutting of such trees can be divided into the following three types:
The first is the flower buds of the appropriate amount of trees, generally not moving flowers, short branches of branches of branches of 3 to 4 flower buds retracted, 1 year old branches with buds of buds leave 3 or so short buds;
The second is the tree with excessive flower buds. It is necessary to properly remove the weak branches and weak buds, and leave more strong branches and strong buds to renew aging and over-twigs, while leaving no berry branches on the 1-3-year-old branches of the backbone branches. The branches are cut off from the buds, the long fruit branches are lightly topped, and the dense and debilitated flower buds are removed. After the re-cutting, the amount of flower buds is still excessive, which can be further adjusted by thinning and thinning;
The third is a tree with less flower buds. The flower buds should be kept as much as possible, and the vegetative branches without flowers should be properly short-cut and over-extracted. For the young and prosperous trees with initial results, the flower buds should be used as much as possible to ease the growth and have a certain yield. For small old trees with extremely weak tree buds and excessive flower buds, all flower buds are removed, and better development branches and full buds are retained to restore the tree potential.
In production, it should be noted that in order to prevent long-term low temperature, high wind and night frost from damaging the flower, affecting pollination and fruit setting, more flower buds should be left during re-cutting, and then fruit-splitting should be based on the load capacity of the plant.
2. Late spring pruning
Also called delayed trimming, referred to as late cut. It is aimed at young apple trees with strong growth results or few results. Postponing to spring tree sprouting after germination can alleviate the growth potential of trees, transforming trees from prosperous to moderate growth, slowing tree growth and vegetative growth. Being controlled, the canopy is short. Due to delayed pruning, nutrient growth is weakened, which is beneficial to the formation of flower buds, early results. Late spring pruning is a technical measure to weaken the growth potential. It can only be applied on Wangshuwangzhi, especially the varieties with poor germinating power and sweet bananas with strong growth potential, and the best effect before flowering. When pruning, for the whole tree grows vigorously, in the winter shearing, only the extension branch of the short-bone dry branch is used, and the other branches are cut in the late spring according to the requirements of winter shearing, and the branches of the spring and autumn shoots (that is, the two season branches) are moderately strong. Late cut to the junction of spring and autumn shoots (that is, wearing a dead cap) is better, the growth of the first shoots under the cut is small, the germination rate and the amount of short branches are high, and the general long-term vegetative shoots will be Cut off a piece of germination. The late spring pruning method can't be carried out on a tree every year. When the tree is moderated, it will be changed to the conventional pruning method. It is forbidden to cut it on the middle or the weak branches.
3. Smear
After the spring germination, the useless sprouts or sprouts are removed, which can save nutrition, increase the proportion of effective branches, improve the light conditions, and reduce the amount of wintering and unnecessary scars. The main part of the germination: First, the inner stalk is close to the main trunk within 20 cm and the bud on the back of the auxiliary branch. These buds are easy to pump and grow, consume nutrients, affect light, and disturb the tree shape. The second is the buds sprouting around the wounds of the big branches that were removed in the winter of last year. Due to the stimulating effect of the wounds, these buds often produce several prosperous new shoots. If the winter is again removed, it will inevitably cause years of injury. The third is the bulging part of the pull branch or the twisted tip and the back part of the branch after the branching angle is extended. The strong erect new shoots are often sprouted, which can be reserved according to the space, and the topping and twisting are adopted. By other methods to control, the extra sprouts are erased as soon as possible.
4. Carved buds
Tree buds can concentrate nutrients, form high-quality branches and short branches, and further cultivate the resulting branches to make the trees early. Carved buds can also supplement the missing branches, correct the partial crown, suppress the weak, adjust the growth of the branches, balance the tree potential, and stabilize the tree. Whether the bud can obviously work, the appropriate time bud, and the moment bud is the key. In the spring, 40 days before the germination of the apple tree to the early stage of germination, the toothed side of the small hacksaw is scratched from the 2nd bud above the 4th bud under the dry cut, and the slash length is about 1/3 of the thick branch. Every other 3 buds are engraved with 1 bud, deep into the xylem, not to damage the wood, and it is better to gradually deepen from top to bottom. In the next 2 to 6 years, the center selected for the year will be extended, and the bud will be swayed until the center reaches the predetermined height. In the spring of the second year, the buds on both sides of the backbone branches and the back buds were stabbed in successive years; for the auxiliary branches of the slow release, the basal buds with a base diameter of 1 cm or less and a length of 50 cm, the base diameter of 1 cm or more and a length of 50 cm or more Fully budded; all the buds with a base diameter of 1.5 cm and a length of 70 cm or more are used to block the nutrients in the lower part of the branches and then transport them upwards, so that the buds under the buds are adequately nourished to facilitate the germination and growth of the buds. Branches.
5. Pulling branches
Pulling the open angle is to use a rope or wire to pull the branches into a certain angle and direction. The advantage is that the branches can be pulled to a suitable angle, and the orientation of the branches can be adjusted at will, and the uneven distribution of the branches in the canopy can be overcome. The phenomenon. The object of spring pull is 3 years old and above, which should be carried out after flowering in spring to mid-May. At this time, the sap has flowed, the opening angle is easier, the wound recovers quickly, and there are fewer strips on the back. In the production, a strong big branch opening angle is generally adopted by the method of “one push, two presses, three presses and four fixesâ€. One push is to push the branch repeatedly upwards; the second is to repeatedly soften the branches; the three pressures are to push the branches down to the required angle while the lychees are in place; the four positioning is to tie the branches with the wire or the wire Position it so that it is not "arched" and then fixed in the ground.
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